Rank and Style: Power Dressing in Imperial China [USC Pacific Asia Museum]

Dragons and Phoenixes: Badges for the Imperial Family
	1. Women Embroidering Rank Badges China, Qing dynasty, 19th century Ink and color on paper Lent by Chris Hall, Hong Kong
	2. Manchu Nobleman China, early 18th century Ink, gold and colors on silk USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mrs. Sunny Stevenson, 2024.8.1
	*3. Badge (buzi) with Frontal Dragon for an Emperor or Empress* China, Ming dynasty, Wanli period, 1573-1620 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*4. Badge (buzi) with Frontal Dragon for an Imperial Family Member* China, Qing dynasty, early 19th century Silk tapestry (kesi) USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Beverly Boatwright, 1986.29.3
	*5. Badge (buzi) for an Imperial Duke* China, late Qing dynasty, 1850-70 Silk tapestry (kesi) Lent by the Ruth Chandler Williamson Gallery, Scripps College
	*6. Badge (buzi) with Dragons above Phoenixes for an Empress* China, Ming dynasty, Wanli period, 1573-1620 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*7. One of a Pair of Double Phoenix Badges (buzi) for an Empress or Princess* China, Ming dynasty, Wanli period, 1573-1620 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*8. Badge (buzi) with Profile Dragon for a Prince* China, Qing dynasty, late 18th century Silk tapestry (kesi), metallic thread Lent by Dodi Fromson
	*9. One of a Pair of Badges (buzi) with Dragon for an Empress or Imperial Concubine* China, Qing dynasty, c. 1860 Silk and metallic thread embroidery, coral beads Lent by the Petterson Museum of Intercultural Art, Pilgrim Place
	10. Badge (buzi) with Feiyu China, Ming dynasty, 15th century Silk tapestry (kesi) Lent by Chris Hall, Hong Kong
	11. Badge (buzi) with Douniu China, Ming dynasty, late 16th – early 17th century Silk brocade Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	12. Pair of Badges (buzi) with Qilin China, Ming dynasty, 16th century Silk thread tent stitch embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*13. Badge (buzi) with Single-Horned Animal* China, Ming dynasty, Wanli period (1573-1620) Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*14. Badge (buzi) with Xiezhi* for a Court Censor** China, Ming dynasty, mid-16th century Silk brocade Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*15. Badge (buzi) with Xiezhi* for a Court Censor** China, Qing dynasty, Qianlong period (1736-1795) Silk, metallic thread and peacock feather embroidery Lent by the Ruth Chandler Williamson Gallery, Scripps College
	*16. Badge (buzi) with Oriole for a Court Musician* China, Qing dynasty, Yongzheng period (1723-35) Silk brocade Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*17. Emperor’s Surcoat (gunfu)* China, Qing dynasty, Qianlong period (1736-1795) Silk and metallic thread tapestry (kesi) Lent by the Petterson Museum of Intercultural Art, Pilgrim Place
	*18. Surcoat (bufu) for a Second-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, mid-19th century Silk and metallic thread embroidery on silk gauze USC Pacific Asia Museum, Museum Purchase, 1991.32.1
	*19. Semi-formal Court Robe (jifu) for an Official* China, Qing dynasty, c. 1860 Silk and metallic thread embroidery on silk gauze USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Carl and Betsey Whitman, in memory of Prof. Walter and Grace Whitman, 1998.55.1
	20. Portrait of a Sixth-Rank Civil Official and His Wives China, Qing dynasty, 19th century Ink and color on paper USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Miss Ruth P. Eames, 1981.21.2
	*21. Informal Winter Hat (jiguan) for a Noblewoman* China, Qing dynasty, 19th century Silk satin, appliqué, quilting sable, gilt metal, Peking glass Lent by Beverley Jackson
	*22. Formal Winter Hat (chaoguan)* China, Qing dynasty, 19th century Velvet, untwisted silk floss, brocade, pierced gilt metal, rock crystal USC Pacific Asia Museum, Museum Purchase, 1980.36.3
	*23. Summer Hat (jiguan) for a Court Official* China, Qing dynasty, second half 19th century Split bamboo, silk gauze, silk brocade, twisted silk fringe, pierced gilt metal, Peking glass USC Pacific Asia Museum, Museum Purchase, 1980.36.2
	*24. Feather Hat Decoration (lingzhi) for a Third-Rank Court Official* China, Qing dynasty, late 19th century Peacock and egret feathers, jade Lent by the Petterson Museum of Intercultural Art, Pilgrim Place
	25. Hat Finial for Third-Rank Civil Officials China, Qing dynasty, 19th century Gilt metal, Peking glass USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Alyce and T.J. Smith, 1996.37.15
	26. Court Necklace and Box China, Qing dynasty, 19th century Necklace: Peking glass, jade, ceramic (?), gilt metal and silk braid; Box: incised lacquered bamboo, gold paint Lent by the Ruth Chandler Williamson Gallery, Scripps College
	27. Box for Court Official’s Summer Hat China, Qing dynasty, 19th century Painted leather Lent by the Petterson Museum of Intercultural Art, Pilgrim Place
	*28. Imperial Nobleman’s Semi-Formal Court Robe (jifu)* China, Qing dynasty, 18th century Silk and metallic thread embroidery on silk gauze USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Paul Pemberthy, Jr., 1985.31.1
Cranes and Peacocks: Rank Badges for Civil Officials
	*1. Badge (buzi) With Crane for a First-Rank Civil Official* China, late Ming dynasty, 1620-1644 Silk brocade Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*2. One of a Pair of Badges (buzi) With Crane for a First-Rank Civil* Official China, Qing dynasty, mid-19th century Silk and metallic thread embroidery
	*3. Pair of Badges (buzi) With Crane for a Child* China, Qing dynasty, 1850-1860 Silk and metallic thread embroidery USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mr. Harvey W. House, 1976.35.78A, B
	*4. Badge (buzi) With Golden Pheasant for a Second-Rank Civil Official* China, late Qing dynasty, c. 1900 Metallic thread couched with colored silk thread USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Bea Brunt, 1987.24.24
	*5. Badge (buzi) With Golden Pheasant for a Second-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, 1875-1895 Metallic thread couched with colored silk thread USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Alyce and T. J. Smith, 1997.66.86
	*6. Badge (buzi) With Peacock for a Third-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, late 17th century Silk, peacock feather filament, and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*7. Purchased Round Badge (buzi) With Peacock* China, Qing dynasty, 1850-70 Silk tapestry (kesi) with metallic thread and ink Lent by Dodi Fromson
	*8. Badge (buzi) With Peacock for a Third-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, 1850-75 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Ruth Chandler Williamson Gallery, Scripps College
	*9. Badge (buzi) With Wild Goose for a Fourth-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, Qianlong period, 1750-1760 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by Chris Hall, Hong Kong
	*10. Pair of Badges (buzi) With Wild Goose for a Fourth-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, c. 1795 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by Dodi Fromson
	*11. Badge (buzi) With Wild Goose for a Fourth-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, 1860-70 Silk tapestry (kesi), peacock feather filament, metallic thread USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of the Collectors’ Gallery, 1979.16.1
	*12. Badge (buzi) With Silver Pheasant for a Fifth-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, mid-17th century Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by Ninel Dubrovich and David Woodruff
	*13. Badge (buzi) with Silver Pheasant for a Child* China, Qing dynasty, c.1735 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*14. Badge (buzi) With Silver Pheasant for a Fifth-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, late 18th century; border: early 19th century; assembled: mid-20th century Silk tapestry (kesi), metallic thread and ink; border: silk and metallic thread brocade USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Miss Myrle Whitford, 2025.1.5
	*15. Badge (buzi) With Egret for a Sixth-Rank Civil Official* China, Ming dynasty, 16th century Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*16. Badge (buzi) With Egret for a Sixth-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, second half 17th century Silk, metallic and peacock feather filament embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*17. Badge (buzi) With Egret for a Sixth-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, c. 1850 Silk and metallic thread embroidery USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. S. M. McFedries in memory of Katherine E. Howell, 1976.41.13
	*18. Badge (buzi) With Mandarin Duck for a Seventh-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, c.1730-35 Silk brocade Lent by the Ruth Chandler Williamson Gallery, Scripps College
	*19. Badge (buzi) with Mandarin Duck for a Seventh-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, c. 1730-35 Silk and metallic thread embroidery USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. S.M. McFedries in memory of Katherine E. Howell, 1976.41.12
	*20. Badge (buzi) with Mandarin Duck for Seventh-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, 1898-1900 Silk and metallic thread tapestry (kesi) Lent by the Ruth Chandler Williamson Gallery, Scripps College
	*21. Badge (buzi) With Quail for an Eighth-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, c. 1860 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Ruth Chandler Williamson Gallery, Scripps College
	*22. Badge (buzi) With Paradise Flycatcher for a Ninth-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, Daoguang period (1821-50) Silk and metallic thread embroidery USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mrs. Russell Dod, 1977.24.13
	23. Crib Sheet / Cheater’s Handkerchief China, Qing dynasty, 19th century Ink on silk Lent by Beverley Jackson
	24. Boy’s Hat China, Qing dynasty, 1850-1900 Silk and metallic thread embroidery, silk velvet, metallic thread tassels USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mrs. Jane Ullman, 2025.6.2
	*25. Game of Promotion (shegguan tu)* China, Qing dynasty, late 19th century Ink on paper Lent by Chris Hall, Hong Kong
	*26. Uncut Badge (buzi) Without Insignia* China, Qing dynasty, late 19th –early 20th century Silk and metallic thread embroidery on mesh, paper binding USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. S.M. McFedries in memory of Katherine E. Howell, 1976.41.10
	27. Pair of Wild Goose Appliqué Insignia China, Qing dynasty, late 19th - early 20th century Metallic thread couched with colored silk thread Lent by the Petterson Museum of Intercultural Art, Pilgrim Place
	28. Pair of Golden Pheasant Appliqué Insignia China, Qing dynasty, late 19th - early 20th century Metallic thread couched with colored silk thread Lent by the Petterson Museum of Intercultural Art, Pilgrim Place
Lions and Tigers: Rank Badges for Military Officers
	*1. Badge (buzi) With Qilin* for a First-Rank Military Official** China, Qing dynasty, c.1850 Silk and metallic thread tapestry (kesi) Lent by Dodi Fromson
	*2. Badge (buzi) With Qilin* for a First-Rank Military Officer** China, Qing dynasty, c. 1830 Silk and metallic thread tapestry (kesi), ink Lent by the Ruth Chandler Williamson Gallery, Scripps College
	*3. Badge (buzi) With Lion for a Second-Rank Military Officer* China, Qing dynasty, 1850-70 Silk and metallic thread, peacock feather filament embroidery USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Henry N. Foster, 1979.17.1
	*4. Badge (buzi) With Lion for a Second-Rank Military Officer* China, Qing dynasty, c.1830 Silk and metallic thread tapestry (kesi), ink Lent by the Ruth Chandler Williamson Gallery, Scripps College
	*5. Badge (buzi) With Leopard for a Third-Rank Military Officer* China, Qing dynasty, 1850-70 Silk and metallic thread tapestry (kesi), ink USC Pacific Asia Museum, Museum Purchase, 1997.65.4
	6. Badge (buzi) With Tiger for a Fourth-Rank Military Officer China, early Qing dynasty, 1644-1652 Silk, metallic and peacock feather filament thread brocade Lent by Chris Hall, Hong Kong
	*7. Badge (buzi) With Tiger for a Fourth-Rank Military Officer* China, Qing dynasty, c.1850 Silk and metallic thread tapestry (kesi), ink Lent by the Ruth Chandler Williamson Gallery, Scripps College
	*8. Badge (buzi) With Tiger for a Fourth-Rank Military Officer* China, Qing dynasty, 1850-70 Silk and metallic thread tapestry (kesi), ink USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Miss Mabel Kay, 1969.1.109
	*9. Badge (buzi) With Bear for a Fifth-Rank Military Officer* China, Ming dynasty, c.1500 Silk and metallic thread tapestry (kesi) Lent by Chris Hall, Hong Kong
	*10. Badge (buzi) With Bear for a Fifth-Rank Military Officer* China, Qing dynasty, 1840-50 Silk and metallic thread embroidery USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mrs. Russell Dod, 1977.24.14
	*11. Badge (buzi) With Panther for a Sixth-Rank Military Officer* China, Qing dynasty, 1820-50 Silk and metallic thread embroidery
	12. Seventh-Rank Military Official China, Qing dynasty, 19th century Original: ink and color on paper Chris Hall Collection Trust, Hong Kong Photo courtesy of Asian Civilisations Museum, National Heritage Board, Singapore
	13. Ninth-Rank Military Official China, Qing dynasty, 19th century Original: ink and color on paper Chris Hall Collection Trust, Hong Kong Photo courtesy of Asian Civilisations Museum, National Heritage Board, Singapore
Peonies and Lanterns: Badges for Festivals and Ceremonies
	1. Hanging for the Lantern Festival China, Qing dynasty, 1860-80 Silk and metallic thread embroidery USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Alyce and T.J. Smith, 1997.66.90
	*2. Man’s Semi-Formal Court Robe (jifu)* China, Qing dynasty, late 19th century Silk and metallic thread embroidery USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mrs. Mildred Hewes from the Collection of Zula F. Brown, 2024.8.8
	3. Festival Badge with Dragon and Gourd-Shaped Lantern China, Ming dynasty, Wanli period, 1573-1620 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	4. One of a Pair of Festival Badges with Tigers and the Five Poisons China, Ming dynasty, Wanli period, 1573-1620 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	5. Festival Badge with Pomegranate and the Five Poisons China, Ming dynasty, Wanli period, 1573-1620 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	6. Festival Badge with the Cowherd and Celestial Weaving Maiden China, Ming dynasty, Wanli period, 1573-1620 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	7. Festival Badge with Celestial Figures and Rabbits China, Ming dynasty, Wanli period, 1573-1620 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	8. Festival Badge with the Moon Rabbit China, late Ming dynasty, 1620-1644 Silk brocade Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	9. Festival Badge with Dragon and Chrysanthemums China, Ming dynasty, Wanli period, 1573-1620 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*10. Birthday Badge with Deer and Shou* Character** China, Ming dynasty, Wanli period, 1573-1620 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by Chris Hall, Hong Kong
	11. Festival Badge with Phoenixes and Goats China, Ming dynasty, Wanli period, 1573-1620 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*12. Festival Badges with Shou* Characters and Plum Blossoms** China, Ming dynasty, Wanli period, 1573-1620 Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	*13. Birthday Badge with Shou* Character** China, Ming dynasty, 16th century Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by the Chris Hall Collection, courtesy of the Asian Civilizations Museum, Singapore
	14. Woman’s Wedding Jacket China, Qing dynasty, c.1900 Silk and metallic thread embroidery on silk satin USC Pacific Asia Museum, Museum Purchase, 1977.53.1
	15. Woman’s Wedding Jacket China, Qing dynasty, c. 1840-50 Silk and metallic thread embroidery on silk satin USC Pacific Asia Museum, Estate of Ruth Prime, 1991.30.15
	*16. Woman’s Semi-Formal Ceremonial Vest (xia pei)* China, Qing dynasty, c.1900 Silk and metallic thread embroidery on silk satin USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Karin Aspegren Eckelmeyer, 2024.11.2
	*17. Woman’s Burial Jacket (bai shou yi)* China, Qing dynasty, c.1910 Metallic thread embroidery on silk satin USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Stephen J. Lent, 1982.23.1
Beyond the Forbidden City: The Badge as Icon
	1. Pair of Roundels with Twelve Symbols of Imperial Authority China, Republic of China (1912-1949), 1916 Silk and metallic thread embroidery; seed pearls, coral beads Lent by Chris Hall, Hong Kong
	*2 .Badge (hyungbae) with Single Crane for Fourth to Ninth Civil Ranks* Korea, Joseon dynasty (1392-1910), mid-19th century Silk embroidery USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mr. Harvey W. House, 1976.35.90
	*3. Badge (hyungbae) with Single Crane for Fourth to Ninth Civil Ranks* Korea, Joseon dynasty (1392-1910), 19th century Silk embroidery Lent by Dodi Fromson
	*4. Badge (hyungbae) with Two Hopyo* for Fourth to Ninth Military Ranks** Korea, Joseon dynasty (1392-1910), 19th century Silk embroidery Lent by Dodi Fromson
	*5. Badge (quanbo) with Crane for First and Second Civil Ranks* Vietnam, late 18th – early 19th century Silk embroidery Lent by Dodi Fromson
	*6. Badge (quanbo) With Rooster for a Third-Rank Civil Official* Vietnam, 19th century Silk and metallic thread embroidery Lent by Dodi Fromson
	7. Badge with Paradise Flycatcher Malaysia, probably Malacca, late 19th-early 20th century Couched metal strips and metallic thread, metal sequins Lent by Chris Hall, Hong Kong
	8. One of a Pair of Trunks Tibet, 17th-18th century Wood, mineral pigments, gilding, and gesso; metal fittings Lent by Ruth Sutherlin Hayward
	*9. Badge (buzi) with Paradise Flycatcher for Ninth-Rank Civil Official* China, Qing dynasty, 1850-60 Silk thread embroidery USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mrs. Paul Hunter, 2025.3.1
	10. Woman’s Handbag China, Republic period, c. 1917 Mixed media USC Pacific Asia Museum, Gift of Mrs. Ruth Ann Younglove Loxley, 1977.54.1
	11. Man’s Sport Shirt United States, c. 2006 Printed sandwashed silk cloqué Anonymous Loan